I’m writing this the day after witnessing Pam Hogg’s Spring/Summer 2019 show. Titled Dr. Hogg’s Fantastic Fabulon, staged inside the Freemasons’ Hall, London’s opulent masonic HQ, and featuring runway turns from pop goddess Róisín Murphy and beehived drag star Jodie Harsh, it was a wild, psychedelic assault, and once again confirmed that, after 33 years of electrifying audiences, Pam is still one of the most vital forces in London fashion.

Yesterday, as models stomped by in candy floss négligée, kaleidoscopic print catsuits and towering Illuminati headpieces, for one glorious moment we slipped inside a deleted scene from Alejandro Jodorowsky’s 1972 headtrip The Holy Mountain. But a darker element also weaved through the collection with creations of pure fetish. See-through, floor-length froufrou gowns, thigh-high patent platform boots and leather gloves pulled up to the elbow, all in black, injected the show with a carnal charge. And it’s these pieces, plus some new ones made specifically for byNWR, that you can see in this film.

I first spoke to Pam about working together on something back in May. But she was busier than she’d ever been – organising a one-woman retrospective, and beginning her first costume commission for the theatre – and, she explained, we would have to hold off for her schedule to settle down. Over the ensuing months we messaged regularly, and saw each other on-and-off at parties and events, having impromptu powwows in the crowd, trying to flesh out ideas. At the beginning of August, with Pam’s calendar finally clear, I suggested we make a film. “Great, why don’t I ask my friend Douglas to help?” she said. And that’s when I knew it would all be worth the wait.

Douglas Hart was a founding member and bassist of the seminal Scottish band The Jesus and Mary Chain, before he turned to filmmaking, his first true love, and started shooting videos for other bands including My Bloody Valentine, The Stone Roses and Primal Scream. In 2016, with Steve Mackey (Pulp bass player-turned-studio producer) and Jeannette Lee (co-owner of Rough Trade Records and ex-member of PiL), he formed Call This Number. Housed in a converted car park and equipped with 1970s cathode ray video cameras the size of refrigerators, Call This Number is a film production company like no other. When they’re not broadcasting blink-and-you’ll-miss–it guerilla performances live online – billed as “pirate TV for the Internet age” – they’re shooting no-wave videos for luxury brands like Miu Miu and Schiaparelli. Who better to realise the crazed imaginings of Dr Hogg?

Return to F Street Film

Saffiyah Khan, Karla Kuhlmann & Marina

Call This Number are:
Douglas Hart, Jeannette Lee & Steve Mackey

Clothing Design:
Pam Hogg Couture

Ben Cobb

Director of Photography:
Rob Jarvis

Syd Hayes

Make Up:
Rachel Singer Clark

Dave Lewis

Tom Farmer

Stephen Gallifant

Sound Mixing:
Stephen Gallifant, Steve Mackey & Douglas Hart

Robbie Mailer-Howat

Production Assistants:
Cal Sager & Dani Wright Spragg

Assistant to Pam Hogg:
Anastasia Bull

Thanks to The Vinyl Factory and The Store

Scottish designer Pam Hogg has been a rebel spirit at the heart of London’s fashion and club scene since the mid-80s. Her designs are worn by Siouxsie Sioux, Kate Moss, Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, and have been exhibited around the world, most recently for the one-woman show Divine Disorder at The Gallery in Liverpool. Away from fashion, Hogg’s punk band Doll opened for Blondie in 1993 and, last year, saw her design costumes for the National Theatre of Scotland. In 2016, she was awarded the honorary degree of Doctor of Letters from the University of Glasgow.